Punta Arenas, Chile
January 30, 2020
Our travels through Estrecho de Magallenes to Punta Arenas
As you can see from these photographs below, dawn brought a much better day then the weather prediction in the Viking Daily newsletter of a Mostly Rainy 43 degrees F day - thank goodness! However the day's weather would be a much more challenging event then I ever imagined.
It was a cool but gorgeous morning!
Hanging on the balcony. Good morning Mr. Bill.
An Antarctic Expedition Vessel - the Discovery
Punta Arenas, Chile with the Patagonian Andes background.
Coscoroba Swan (very goose-like)
Tied to hold ship off the dock
Strait of Magellan Park - Lorna's Excursion
Our traveling friends all split up taking different Viking excursions - even Ray and I chose different sightseeing paths. I had to be up and out early as my meeting time was at 8:10 AM. The first sign I had of something afoot were long lines to get into the Star Theater due to Viking personnel rescheduling some tours. I soon learned that unbeknownst to us tucked into a warm and cozy ship, there was a fierce wind blowing outside resulting in some excursions being cancelled. Any tour via water was out - Strait of Magellan by Kayak, and Magdalena Island by Speedboat or Catamaran. Waters were too rough. There were some mighty disappointed people. Since my excursion to Strait of Magellan Park was not full, and deemed doable in wind, it was delayed a bit to add more passengers.
During our disembarking instructions we were told to leave the ship, walk down the dock, go through Security in the terminal building and meet our coach in the parking lot outside. We were also strongly warned to hold on to our hats and our excursion tickets very tightly as they could blow away. I walked out alone and once I cleared the end of the ship, I was met by a heck of a wind blowing across the dock. I stumble ran a few steps catching myself before I fell. There was no rail or Ray to steady me, only a chain separating pedestrians from the traffic on the other half of the dock. I knew immediately why some excursions were cancelled. Would not want to be in a kayak.
Our first stop was in Punta Arenas at the Cerro de la Cruz observation deck for a panoramic view of the city where I got shots of a cute hotel and cafe building nearby.
It was a 45 minute drive outside of town to our main destination at Strait of Magellan Park with Fort Bulnes. Making an unscheduled stop was most welcome. Below in the red pants is our guide for the day and the other gal is the owner of the restaurant where we had our comfort break. All the cookies, breads and cakes were homemade by her. A really charming local place.
Once again the architecture is distinctively European style.
As we continued our travels, our guide chatted about life in such a remote area and gave us an overview of the area. Punta Arenas is the capital of Chile's southernmost region, Magallanes and Antartica Chilena. It is the largest city south of the 46th parallel in this hemisphere and the most populous (130,000+ residents) southernmost city in Chile and in the Americas. It is also the coldest coastal city in Latin America. Since 1977 it has been one of only two free ports in Chile, the other being near the border with Peru. Since its founding, Chile has used Punta Arenas as a base to defend its sovereignty claims in this part of South America. This led to the Strait of Magellan being recognized as Chilean territory in the Boundary Treaty of 1881 between Chile and Argentina. There is a history of border contention between the two countries. Each country claims that much of the border is dictated by geography more then anything else with the Andes Mountains running the length of each as the defining feature.
Until the opening of the Panama Canal, Punta Arenas had great maritime significance first with the early European explorers and then in the shipping trade as a port of call for ships passing through the Strait or around the tip of the continent. Today it has logistic importance because of ones ability to access the Antarctic Peninsula. In addition, much of Chile's oil reserves are located in this part of the country. Sheep farming remains an important industry and tourism is high.
Although its a sizable city, to travel anywhere else in the country residents must fly to either Puerto Montt or Santiago which is very costly. It is possible to go by land through Argentina but just traveling to Puerto Montt will take 3 days. There is a ferry which crosses the Strait of Magellan to Tierra del Fuego, an island that is part Chile and part Argentina territory. Living here has travel restrictions much like those living on an island.
Before turning on to Strait of Magellan Park entrance road, a short photo stop was made at the center of Chile. The two monuments were in an interesting layout with the sunburst walkways. I don't recall the particular significance of the shrine to the Virgin Mary but Chile is a mostly Catholic country whether practicing or not.
The Mar de Chile monolith below marks this location as the geographical center of Chile. The star at the bottom of Chile represents this center just West of Punta Arenas. I thought it was very strange since this star is positioned in the southernmost part of the long skinny landmass that I associate with Chile. However the portion ending in a V at the bottom of the monument represents Antarctica. Chile's territorial claim extends from Arica in the North on her border with Peru to the South Pole of Antarctica. This monument marks the equidistant point between the two. A question does remain in my mind: If Chile extends across the water to Antarctica, then why do they not include the distance to Easter Island in their center of country calculations also.
This roadside shrine near our parked coach caught my attention. I have seen memorials of flowers or a cross both in the U.S. and Puerto Rico in remembrance of a loved one who died in that location. However, I don't think I have seen one so elaborate and well cared for. There were real flowers growing in the pot above the case. Inside contained photos and mementos of the deceased. Apparently he passed in a motorcycle accident. There were virtually no cars on this desolate road making me wonder how the heck did that fellow die in a road accident.
Our drive was along the Strait of Magellan with a view to the water scenery on one side and the land on the other. Much of the terrain here is Patagonian Steppe which is characterized by a dry climate, rocky, sandy soil and vegetation consisting of predominantly grasses and shrubby plants. In the distance we could see the forested hillsides of the Patagonian Andes.
The Strait of Magellan Park, located on a narrow and rocky peninsula named, Punta Santa Ana, is more then 600 acres, contains 2 National Historical Monuments and archaeological sites that mark the arrival of humankind several thousands of years ago. There were several areas a visitor can explore and 3 hiking trails. We would visit two sites and learn much about the history and past inhabitants of this land.
After Francis Drake's successful negotiation of the Strait of Magellan to enter the Pacific Ocean, Spain was determined to fortify the strait to hinder further "piracy" on ships. To this end they attempted to colonize the area sending 300+ people to the area in March of 1534 calling it Ciudad de Rey Don Felipe (City of King Philip). Almost all of the colonists either starved or froze to death. March in the Southern Hemisphere is the beginning of Fall leaving precious little time to build shelter or cultivate the land before the arrival of Winter. They also lacked fresh water and supplies. With the harsh weather and poor soil they could not establish agriculture. A tragic end came to their lives and dreams of grandeur. Only a few were left to tell their story.
The next English navigator named Cavendish landed at the site in 1587 and only found ruins of the settlement. He renamed it Port Famine. In the 19th Century, it was developed as a British Naval Base. The port was visited a number of times between 1832-34 by the HMS Beagle. It is now known as Puerto Hambre. We heard about this portion of history through our guide at Fort Bulnes but were unable to visit the site. This sector had been open with restrictions due to recovery and research projects but recently closed to visitors upon the discovery of bones. It is now an active archaeological site and believed to be a more layered history then the 14th Century Spanish settlement.
Our main stop in the park was Fort Bulnes, an historic military outpost founded in 1843 about 2 miles from the first European settlement of Puerto Hambre. The President of Chile wanted to establish a presence to further colonize Southern Chile, ward off claims by other nations and protect the Strait of Magellan. The schooner, Goleta Ancud, was commissioned to sail from Chiloe and arrived in September of 1843 with 21 people (Captain, 18 crew members and 2 women) plus cargo. The fort was constructed using mainly logs from the local forest, dirt and grass bricks. As in centuries earlier, the harsh conditions challenged living on that lonely peninsula and they realized it could not support a civilian settlement. With this in mind, the fort was abandoned and in 1848 the settlement was moved to what is now the city of Punta Arenas. A century later the fort was rebuilt in the same manner and with the same local materials. In 2002 it was restored and a healthy tourism was established.
It was a cold but sunny day with a fierce westerly wind. With the wind, we experienced one of the harsh conditions which the early settlers had to endure. Our guide led us through replicas of the barracks, chapel, armory, jail and post office and we saw the canons pointing to sea for protection. I took few photographs because I was unable to hold the camera steady in the strong wind and needed to be in the protection of buildings to get a shot. I had planned to ditch the group during our free time to walk one of the trails for the spectacular view of the Strait from that high bluff. However, with the high winds and very open aspect of the trails, my plans were dashed.
Above and below are Araucarias, tall, evergreen, cone bearing trees that are the national tree of Chile. They were nicknamed Monkey Puzzle Trees by a British fellow. It is said that if a monkey climbs it, he cannot find his way out.
Buildings of Fort Bulnes and view of the Strait of Magallen,
The final stop of our excursion was at the Museum of the Strait located at the highest part of the park. The Museum is the most recent addition to the Park and harbors a modern display using science and art to explain the territory formation processes, the different life forms that comprise its ecosystems, the history of the human presence in this part of the world as well as models of famous explorer ships. The Museum contained many interesting displays. However, the exhibit I found most intriguing contained reproductions of old maps drawn by the early explorers based on their travels. Each successive expedition cartographer expanded the world's view of the tip of South America. After having passed through much of the Strait of Magellan, I cannot imagine the wonder felt, skills employed and challenge to travel in uncharted waters.
Sample of the area flora.
View of the Strait from the Museum
Lorna's Punta Arenas Town Experience
During our drive back to town, our guide announced that, if anyone wished to walk into town following the excursion, she would show the way. Punta Arenas was our final Chilean destination and I had some pesos left to spend, so I joined her and a couple other passengers. True to her word, it was only a few blocks walk away. The wind was strong near the terminal where the bus dropped us, however, I had no idea that the taller buildings in town would create near knock-down wind tunnels. Before our guide left us, she pointed out the railings along the sidewalk that we could use if the wind blew fast.
As our passenger party of three neared the town square, gusts began barreling down the streets picking up great clouds of grit and small pieces of trash. I was glad to be wearing my warmer hooded jacket as it gave me some head protection. The 3 of us linked arms at times to stay earthbound. We walked past the square looking for a local place to have an Empanada. Each corner we approached brought another wall of wind. A couple of times I almost lost my footing but stumble-ran to the sidewalk railing. My walking friends were sure footed and happy to wander but I was afraid of being blown over, falling and getting hurt.
I began heading back to the ship by myself. At each corner I waited in the lee of a building until the traffic light changed to Walk and carried on only if there was a lull in the wind. One time I barely made it across and clung to the light pole on the far corner . As I stood there hanging on, a local man offered me his arm indicating that he would assist me to the hand-hold railing. From there I was able to walk to the next corner with the assistance of the railing system. There I needed to turn the corner and into the wind for a couple blocks to reach the terminal. I walked very close to the windows because they all had some sort of security bars or decorative ironwork which I could hold when the gusts arrived. Near blinded by the grit in my eyes, I made it to the wind shelter of a terminal building. A security guard saw me huddling in the lee of the building reluctant to cross over and walk to the entrance. He kindly approached me offering his arm and escorted me inside.
First thing I did was find a rest room to rinse my eyes. Dreading another walk down the dock to our ship, I was so relieved to learn that Viking had arranged for an 18 passenger mini bus to drive us along the dock. By this time there was not only a horrendous wind blowing cross-wise on the dock but crashing waves. I didn't get to see much of the town square, eat an empanada or spend my Chilean pesos. I also missed taking any photos of the railing system Punta Arenas had installed for these windy days. Apparently extreme winds are not a rare occurrence here. I was told the winds were blowing 60 kilometres with gusts up to 100 kilometres per hour at midday. It was the famed Patagonia Winds that can knock cars off the roads.
Ray captured this wind swept water photo
Punta Arenas & Magellan's Discovery - Ray's Excursion
Although they had scheduled the Patagonian Andes by Foot tour with Viking, the afternoon trip was cancelled same as the morning one was. They were very disappointed as it was to be a drive to the Club Andino ski area in the Andes outside of town, board a ski lift to the top of a trail and then hike down through the forested mountain slopes back to the Center. Scenic vistas and a downhill hike but the lift system was closed due to the danger of the high winds.
You can see the ski center and downhill runs in the photo below.
Following you will have more photos then narration (lucky you) and I was not on the excursion. Ray provided me with the photo identification and a bit of story line.
Driving along the waterfront, Ray captured some nice photos of different military, private and commercial vessels as well as shots of the city.
Chilean Naval Vessel
The private cruising boat looks to be French from the flag they are flying. An old four masted ship is pictured in the background.
Picturesque Rainbow
The Four-Masted Ship
The Cruising Boat
They saw some interesting murals. The arched entrance between the windows is the mural.
And then to...guess where...?
Where they would have a guided tour of Museo Nao Victoria
The main attraction of the Nao Victoria Museum is a life-sized replica of the ship that Ferdinand Magellan sailed when he discovered the Strait of Magellan, the Nao Victoria. Only 18 members survived the Portuguese sailor's 1519 Spanish expedition, a journey to be the first to circumnavigate the globe and one that put Tierra del Fuego on the map.
Besides Magellan's ship, replicas of the HMS Beagle, the ship that frequented the British base of Puerto Hambre and on which Darwin sailed, as well as the Ancud, the vessel on which the settlers of Fort Buhles traveled to reach the site where they built the fort. Rays excursion effectively tied into mine with him seeing the ships and me touring the land where they either landed or brought homesteaders.
Magellan's Ship - Nao Victoria
The Nao Victoria steering system
What do you do with a drunkin sailor
The rum purser
Captain's Cabin where he both slept and planned their route.
Captain's Sleeping Quarters
HMS Beagle
The full ship exterior photo is too dark to include but there were great ship and sail plans in a cabin.
The Ancud - ship on which the settlers of Fort Bulnes sailed
One of several ships along the shore needing attention.
The following pictorial represents the displays of the Maggiorino Borgatello Museum founded by Salesian missionaries. The museum provides a comprehensive overview of the region's flora and fauna, and the history of the local indigenous people. Of the birds below, we heard the Kingfisher (left) in the wild and saw the Magellanic Woodpecker (red head) hike on Tierra del Fuego.
We did see this looker, the Andean Condor, high above us during our excursion to the Andes outside of Santiago, Chile.
The indigenous natives in their natural habitat and as the missionaries attempted to convert and "civilize" them.
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| Knife Sharpener Above |
Antarctic Display
We saw many of the Black-browed Albatross while sailing offshore after Cape Horn.
Miniature model of the Nao Victoria (Magellan's ship)
Model of the HMS Beagle
The final stop of Ray's excursion was at the Cerro de la Cruz and in the town square of Punta Arenas. His town stop was at a later hour then mine and the wind moderated enough to enjoy the square and architecture. Ray took some great photos from the Cerro. You can see how rough was the water.
Military and cargo vessels hunkered down in the wind.
The Viking Jupiter at the pier.
Scenes around the Punta Arenas town square
Statue of Magellan in the center of the town square.
Let sleeping dogs lie.
If you touch the foot, the legend is you will return.
Spanish heritage countries always have a Catholic church positioned at the town square.
Palacio Sara Braun
Sara Braun was a Chilean businesswoman who became one of the principal employers in Patagonia. When her husband died, she took over his commercial, industrial and shipping interests expanding it by establishing an import trading house and a group of warehouses becoming one of the first women to run a business in the area. She was involved in many charitable endeavors and celebrated for her benevolence. Her mansion is preserved as a museum in Punta Arenas.
Tourist Information Kiosk
The wind was still strong for our 4 pm departure. With the wind hitting The Jupiter broadside, it took two tugs to get us off the dock. It's not the blowing water and crashing seas of earlier hours but strong wind nonetheless.
Manfredi's, the specialty Italian restaurant, was where we had a 6 pm dinner reservation for our group. We assembled in the Explorer's Lounge where the Viking Classical Duo were performing their magical melodies enjoying a pre-dinner cocktail and sharing tales of our day's excursions.
Classical Duo
Manfredi's is a visually striking space with an outstanding menu. Cruisers rave about the dry rub-spiced rib eye steak which we have tried. From Osso Buco, Scaloppines, Seafood and Specials, as well as Starters, Soups, Sides and Pastas, it is so hard to decide. The choices in the bread basket are the best on the ship too. A traditional Italian meal serves a pasta dish before the main course which I do like to try. In Manfredi's one can order a half size pasta . And then there are the desserts...
When we waddled out of after this stellar meal we gravitated back to the Explorer's Lounge for some scenic cruising. The Jupiter had already cleared the Straits of Magellan and was heading into the narrow canals and channels on her way to northern arm of the Beagle channel (or Canal Beagle Brazo Noroeste). During this evening of shoreside sights we would have our first glimpse of the Darwin Mountains (or Cordillera Darwin) with background music provided by Olga tickling the ivories.
This the entrance to the Explorer's Lounge looking out. I like the constellations displayed here and inside over the panoramic forward windows.
Our friends and traveling companions Bill and Sandi. Behind Bill on the chair is a beautiful reindeer pelt that we quickly learned to turn over lest we be covered with fur. They shed worse then a pack of Labradors and German Sheppards.
With sunset near 11 pm, we had ample photo opportunities with jagged mountains, dramatic cloud formations, snowy peaks, more glaciers and threads of waterfalls.
While others aboard were enjoying the Movie Under the Stars (Kon Tiki) in the main pool area, dancing to the Viking Band in Torshavn or attending the Star Theater main show with Jason Lyle Black entertaining at the piano with "wit and charm", we called it a night. The sun still up, we drew the light blocking drapes, set an alarm for 5:30 am and fell exhausted into bed.
Next Up: Beagle Channel - Glacier Alley
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