Amalia Glacier

Cruising Chilean Fjords & Amalia Glacier

January 29, 2020

Good Morning Patagonia!

The red dot track is our cruising path to the Amalia Glacier.

The purple dots is how we navigated to the Strait of Magallen.

Arose with the earlier sunrise of 6:33 AM once again.  It was an upper 40 degree morning with rain showers predicted a rather gray looking beginning to the day.  So as not to miss any of the scenic fjord cruising we had breakfast at Mamsen's and planted ourselves in the Explorer's Lounge well before many others were up and about.  The big event of the morning was the Amalia Glacier where the Jupiter would get right up close to it.  The Captain would spend about one hour turning the ship so that everyone could get a good view no matter from what side or end of the ship they happened to be watching.  Sue Stockdale, a guest lecturer and polar explorer, would provide intermittent commentary.

We had been traveling through the outermost archipelagos of Chilean Patagonia and yet another floristic zone - The Magellanic Moorland.  This rugged terrain extends from the Golfo de Penas, which we passed yesterday afternoon, to Cape Horn. It is an area exposed to fierce westerly gales, heavy rainfall and continually low temperatures.  This habitat is dominated by dwarfed or prostrate trees, cushion plants, bog flora, heaths and reeds all of which grow on a thick blanket of peat.  The maritime tussock grassland is one of the most conspicuous vegetation types.  Tussock is an important terrestrial ecological niche as it provides nesting habitat for penguins, albatrosses and petrels, and shelter for seals and various forms of invertebrate fauna.

As we approached the fjords, the decks were empty.  Although there was no wind,

it was cold.  The average median temperature for the area is 48 degrees F.

Moving further inland entering Bernardo O'Higgins National Park, we left the moorland of the lowlands and encountered the magical world of deep fjords, densely forested mountainsides and spectacular glaciers.  These higher elevation forests are in the Magellanic Coigue Floristic Zone, a mixed evergreen-deciduous forest.

The Amalia Glacier is just one of the many glaciers that form the Southern Ice Field.  Bernardo O'Higgins National Park almost entirely encompasses this ice field.  The massive Amalia Glacier skirts the northern rise of the Reclus volcano located directly behind it, slowly eroding its slopes.  Amalia's ice floe journeyed here millennia ago from the heights of the Andes Mountains - a fractional segment of one of the world's largest continuous ice fields, the Southern Patagonian Ice Field.  This sheet of ice covered the entirety of southern Chile during the Ice Age.

When the Glacier came into view, passengers began lining the rails.

The clouds hung low but the sky occasionally brightened.

Before the Viking Jupiter could move to the base of the glacier,

 we had to wait until another ship had their turn.

We estimated the size of this sightseeing boat to be 125 feet.

It was the only other boat we saw during our two days cruising the Patagonian waters.

Our turn to get an unobstructed close view.

See the Viking staff member serving hot chocolate to the cold passengers.

The Amalia Glacier does not calve like other more famous ones that can be visited via land but it releases the chunks of ice floating in the water.  I would estimate that the temperatures in the fjord near the glacier were in the 30's.

A chunk off the glacier but not big enough to damage the Jupiter.

In Norway above the Arctic Circle we saw glaciers but never as near as this!  Unfortunately the clouds never lifted to give us a good view of the Reclus Volcano.  I can only imagine how spectacular a picture we would have had with clear blue skies, but am very thankful that it was not mist covered which could happen.

 

We spent more then an hour outside on the decks ducking inside occasionally to warm up.   Having dressed our thin Tropical-blooded bodies in layers, we survived the extreme conditions.  Yeah, we are wimps.

Never need to take Selfies as there is always someone around to take a picture of you with your camera.  (And no intrusive photos by a ship's photographer thank goodness.)

The ship turns and we begin to sail away.   Those panels are part of

the retractable pool cover which can be opened during nice weather.

It was nearing Noon by the time the glacier was out of view and time for lunch with Bill & Sandi at Mamsen's.  They have the best soup.  Definitely hits the spot on a cold day.

So glad it did not rain earlier but the wind picked up and we had an occasional shower.


We participated in some afternoon activities together and separately.  The beautiful Lapis Lazuli stone is Chile's national gem and mined in the country.  It would only be on display and available for purchase while we were in Chilean waters.  Having one busy day remaining in Chile, Ray & I went down to the shops to learn more about this precious stone and make a souvenir purchase.

Bill & Sandi participated in the Bayeux Tapestry Tour, reproductions of which decorate the wide open staircases between the decks, and declared the tour very informative.

As I do on each sea day, a made my visit to the Spa enjoying the Nordic Bathing Ritual.  So rejuvenating!  Ray does not like the chlorine fumes from the therapy pool and jacuzzi in the co-ed area and does not join me.  I agree it is occasionally strong and, on those days, I will spend my time in the Sauna.  Each Men or Women's locker room has a private Sauna and icy cold dipping pool just a couple of steps away.  We ladies can perspire in private (no, we do not sweat).  The Steam Room and Snow Room are in the co-ed area.  Although I have tried both, I much prefer the dry heat of the Sauna.  The Snow Room is a novelty but the nearby jacuzzi is not hot enough to want to roll in the snow afterwards.  It is used by the Steam Room lovers or those merely curious.

Totally relaxed and showered, I had time to attend the Guided Meditation session which Tom also usually attends.  Following that event, we joined the rest of our friends for the Punta Arenas Port Talk.  Since we all had Viking excursions scheduled in that port we were very interested in learning more.  Perhaps it was forewarning but during the talk we were advised that some excursions could be cancelled if the weather was not conducive to the activity - like kayaking and boat trips to Magdalena Island to see penguins or hikes at the ski resort.  Hmmm...

Below is a chart of our course after the glacier experience.  You can see how numerous and closely placed are the islands.

By early evening our vessel was winding its way through some particularly narrow passages between tightly situated islands and rocks.  At several points we could not see a safe passage.  To further complicate our travels, there was a bit of current also as we neared the Straights of Magellan and the more open water where we would slowly navigate overnight.  It was pretty exciting for us sailors to watch the excellent maneuvering by the accomplished bridge crew.  Glad them not us!

Back to the World Cafe for dinner and watching the world go by.  Once again, sunset was near 10 PM.  We skipped both ABBA Songbook shows instead enjoying a fairly quiet Explorer's Lounge and Andre Unplugged (guitar).  There was a Stargazing Session of the Southern Skies that evening but, alas, clouds and cold windy weather deterred many.  Off to sleep in prep for a busy port day.

Next up - Punta Arenas - still in Chile for another day.